Jl. Wijaya Raya no. 60
Tel. 720 8351, 724 7011
Yet another facelift leads Pan d’Or to join the “White is chic” movement, which is grounded on the assumption that the use of white in a room can give it surprising depth — here, the space is layered with different sections in different tones and textures of white, with gradations of light that outline and bring the white into focus: ivory, cream, antique white, and palest beige, light olive and yellow. Tea time, therefore, is a good time to visit, with all that muted, silver light; it’s just as well, because this, and its hallmark classicism, has always been the patisserie’s main appeal.
Nothing much has changed on the menu: it still steers a middle course between café heavy and cuisine light, with a lot of sentimental favourites shown in, such as the dependable vol-au-vent (puff pastry filled with prawns, chicken and green peas smothered in parmesan sauce) or the house club sandwich, a towering stack of beef salami, boiled eggs, tomatoes, and lettuce. The soups, despite their dainty Wedgwood presentation, are surprisingly full-bodied, as evidenced in the tomato soup, which is the colour of fetching rose salmon and dotted with soft tomato chunks. Pastas, salads and grills are pleasant enough — you may want to try the angel hair pesto or the spicy garlic pasta, a passable take on the ubiquitous aglio olio e peperoncino. Diehard fans swear by the crispy chicken salad with honey mustard dressing – if only for its nostalgic value – while the tenderloin with blue cheese sauce is served straight up.
The patisserie brims with goodies, old and new, and you can enjoy some of their slightly banal home made croissants, toasted rail-thin white breads or bagels with smoked salmon and cream cheese for late breakfast starting at 9am. Desserts will never be truly French — the butter and the cream are not right — but the Love Letter, layers of crepes oozing strawberry and vanilla ice cream with a side of crème anglais, was very much enjoyed.
Price range: Around Rp 250,000 for 2
Operating hours: 09:00 – 22:00
Dress code: casual
Atmosphere: classic white chic
All major credit cards accepted
Reviewed: January 2008