Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said
Tel. 577 1545, 577 1546
Gunung Mas is no different now than it was two years ago, when it was still a typical office building basement eatery at Gedung Danamon Aetna. Relocated for the last two years to the basement of Menara Kuningan, it now boasts a mix of the familiar and the updated: the requisite red and gold hues, and one too many table attendants. It has a lower ceiling and slightly warmer lighting, but the best thing about it is the food, which is light but full-flavoured, homey but refined.
Two outstanding dishes to consider: sautéed bitter gourd with jambal salted fish (tumis pare), and clay pot eggplant, also graced with the assertive but not overwhelming jambal salted fish (sapo terong dan ikan asin). Breaded fried eel served over glistening fuma leaves (lindung cah fuma), cooked Hakka style — with fermented red rice, which lends a sweet tang to the greens — is not a forte (though the eel is adequately crunchy); what used to be their forte, the glorious milky tofu and fish soup known as sop ikan sampan, is no more — but in its stead is sop ikan talas, which is also a milky fish soup of sorts, but with stock made of taro. It is not for every taste, but if you like, you’ll love. The oyster omelette, billed as a house specialty, is slightly dry, and the vinegar garlic dip is decidedly an ill-advised partner. Service is competent, and prices are friendly.
Price range: Around Rp 200,000 for 2
Operating hours: 11:00 – 14:30 (lunch);
18:00 – 21:30 (dinner)
Dress code: casual
Atmosphere: basement chic
All major credit cards accepted
Reviewed: December 2007